Shielding Your Tomatoes Quiz Quiz

Explore best practices and common challenges in protecting tomato plants from diseases, pests, and environmental stress through horticultural methods.

  1. Identifying Early Blight Risks

    Which visible symptom most likely indicates early blight on tomato leaves in mid-summer: yellowing with dark concentric spots, fuzzy white coating, deep holes, or curling edges without discoloration?

    1. Curling edges without discoloration
    2. Deep holes
    3. Yellowing with dark concentric spots
    4. Fuzzy white coating

    Explanation: Yellowing leaves with dark concentric spots are a hallmark of early blight, caused by Alternaria fungi. Fuzzy white coating is more typical of powdery mildew. Deep holes often result from insect feeding, not early blight. Curling edges without discoloration can be caused by water stress or environmental factors rather than this fungal disease.

  2. Mulching for Protection

    When aiming to prevent soil-borne diseases in tomato plants, what type of mulch is most commonly recommended: black plastic, large gravel, fine sand, or sawdust with fertilizer?

    1. Large gravel
    2. Sawdust with fertilizer
    3. Fine sand
    4. Black plastic

    Explanation: Black plastic mulch effectively suppresses weeds and reduces soil splashing, which limits the spread of soil-borne pathogens to tomato foliage. Large gravel does not prevent soil contact as efficiently. Fine sand doesn't provide sufficient weed or disease control. Sawdust with fertilizer may alter soil balance and is less commonly used for tomatoes.

  3. Watering Techniques

    Which watering method best reduces the risk of foliar diseases in tomatoes: overhead sprinkling every evening, drip irrigation at soil level in the morning, brief midday misting, or filling saucers beneath pots?

    1. Brief midday misting
    2. Overhead sprinkling every evening
    3. Drip irrigation at soil level in the morning
    4. Filling saucers beneath pots

    Explanation: Drip irrigation at soil level in the morning delivers water directly to roots while keeping foliage dry, reducing disease risk. Overhead sprinkling and misting wet leaves, creating favorable conditions for pathogens. Filling saucers may lead to root rot by encouraging waterlogged soil.

  4. Managing Tomato Hornworms

    If large green caterpillars and chewed leaves appear on your tomato plants, which control method is most selective and eco-friendly: hand-picking caterpillars, applying broad-spectrum insecticides, spraying sulfur, or pruning healthy stems?

    1. Spraying sulfur
    2. Applying broad-spectrum insecticides
    3. Hand-picking caterpillars
    4. Pruning healthy stems

    Explanation: Hand-picking is selective, minimizes harm to beneficial insects, and is highly effective for limited pest populations. Broad-spectrum insecticides can kill non-target species, including pollinators. Sulfur controls fungal diseases, not caterpillars. Pruning healthy stems does not address the pest issue directly.

  5. Preventing Blossom End Rot

    What is a key strategy to avoid blossom end rot in tomatoes: maintaining even soil moisture, applying extra nitrogen fertilizer, planting in sandy soils, or using high shade cloths?

    1. Maintaining even soil moisture
    2. Planting in sandy soils
    3. Applying extra nitrogen fertilizer
    4. Using high shade cloths

    Explanation: Consistent soil moisture helps prevent calcium transport issues, reducing blossom end rot occurrences. Excess nitrogen promotes leaf growth but does not address this disorder. Planting in sandy soils can increase risk due to poor water retention. Shade cloths primarily prevent heat stress, not calcium-related disorders.